Moulins, capital of the Bourbonnais region

Moulins was designated a City of Art and History in 1997. This quality label, awarded by the Ministry for Culture, distinguishes towns and cities whose architectural, artistic and natural heritage is maintained, developed and presented by professional specialists.

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Curious indeed, is the history of the cathedral of Notre-Dame de Moulins, built in two separate parts, from 1468-1540 and 1860-1870, that are totally different both inside and outside. The former collegiate chapel of Duke Jean II, in red Coulandon sandstone, forms the choir. The nave and two bell-towers date from the 19th century, in an early Gothic style where white Chauvigny limestone alternates with black stone from Volvic.

It is home to several works of art such as the 15th and 16th century stained glass windows, the Black Virgin, patroness of the city, and above all, the Triptych of the Master of Moulins which graces the sacristy. This painting has been dated to the early 1500s, and shows the holy Mother and Infant surrounded by Duke Pierre II, Connétable of Bourbon, the Duchess Anne, daughter of Saint Louis and their daughter Suzanne. This remarkably well-preserved painting has never been restored and its colours still stand out in all their glory. It is recognised as one of the major works of medieval painting.

Of the imposing castle extended by the dukes every decade of their reign, only two buildings remain, the rest having been partly destroyed by fire in 1755. The castle keep, a huge rectangular tower 45 metres high, was built towards the end of the 14th century. Its graceless roof won it the nickname of “Mal Coiffée”, meaning “terrible hairdo”. Centuries ago, the building led on to the main part of the castle which extended as far as Anne de Beaujeu’s Pavillion. This late 15th century edifice is one of the earliest French buildings to have been inspired by the Italian Renaissance. Designed for residential and amenity use, it represented at the time the final phase of construction of the castle. Today it houses the Art and Archaeological Museum, the focal point of a large-scale heritage project centred on the presentation of texts and images through the ages.

The Jacquemart belfry, built of Coulandon sandstone in 1455, is also situated in the historic centre of the city. A symbol of the city liberties, this 30-metre high bell-tower had an iron bellringer figure who turned to strike a bell adorned with the duke’s coat of arms. In 1655 a fire destroyed the entire top of the tower and it was rebuilt in its present shape with an octagonal lantern and decked roof. A wife and two children were added to the bellringer’s automaton family. Today the parents strike the hours and the children the quarter hours.

The Chapel of the Visitation
After the execution of the Duke of Montmorency for treason in Toulouse in 1632, his widow, Marie-Félice des Ursins (from the illustrious Florentine family of the Orsini), was interned in the castle of Moulins. In 1634, the king gave her permission to go and live in the Convent of the Visitation. In 1648, she laid the first stone of the chapel built to house her husband’s mausoleum. The sculpting of this monumental tomb in Carrara marble was entrusted to the best artists (the Anguier brothers, Thomas Regnaudin, Thibault Poissant) and offers a fine example of the classical sculpture of the period. The painted ceiling of the nuns’ chapel choir, the work of Vuibert, includes an ensemble of canvas-covered wooden panels illustrating the life of the Virgin.

In the heart of the Middle Ages and the Renaissance
The architecture of Moulins skilfully combines the wood and the adobe walls of medieval dwellings with sandstone and red and black brick. Pink brickwork is alternated with black brick to trace decorative patterns in the centre of the facades. Public buildings and town houses are built of Coulandon sandstone, from a small locality near Moulins where the stone turns red due to oxidation over time. The streets of Paris, the département of Allier, Berwick and Denain, among other places, offer numerous examples of houses and mansions where these regional materials have been used.

A strong Italian influence up until the 19th century
The city hall was built in 1822 in Italian neo-classical style. It faces the Jacquemart tower and its interior courtyard links two city squares. The theatre, built in the 1840s, is typical of Italian-style theatres, and the Palais de Justice (courthouse), formerly a Jesuit college, boasts a 17th century painted ceiling which is the work of the Italian artist Giovanni Gherardini (1638-1723).

A few steps farther, Yzeure, with its 11th and 12th century romanesque church Saint-Pierre d’Yzeure, is the central parish of Moulins. The perfectly conserved church has a romanesque nave and transept with 32 sculptured capitals, remarkable furnishings and some splendid works of art including a polychrome stone statue of the Virgin, classified as a historical monument.

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